Updated on September 16, 2014
Surf Trip 2014: The Bigger, Badder Staycation
I turned 40 this year. So did my friend Scott. For 20+ years we’ve been adventure-seeking friends. For the past 10+ years we’ve gathered each fall for a weekend camping and surf trip to catch some waves and have some fun around a campfire. They’ve all been great trips.
But this year we wanted something worthy of our 40th birthdays. It seemed right to try and do something bigger and better this year. We brainstormed and had just two requirements: warm water and waves. We wanted to pack light, a la the Endless Summer suitcase scene (quote): “Packing for the journey was important. Six pairs of trunks, two boxes of wax, some modern sounds and in case of injury, one bandaid.” That’s us.
Thinking of relatively easy West Coast destinations, we kicked around locations like Hawaii, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, and Mexico. I wanted Mexico. But we each have jobs and wives and kids, so it’s tough to think we can get on a plane and fly somewhere and have enough time to really score some surf. All that travel would limit our water time. We’re certainly not able to fly around the world and chase waves. The Endless Summer this is not.
Then Scott suggested he was in the market for a new board (I just got one, too), and wouldn’t it be cool to just go down the coast and surf all the great spots in California that we’ve never been to before?
At first I scoffed. The water’s not warm enough, I thought. We have surfed so many great spots over the years — who cares if I haven’t surfed Rincon? What are the chances of getting it now? In trunks? The LA traffic and the crowds. Why bother?
But later I came around to the idea, and I’m convinced it’s going to be awesome. The water temp in San Diego is hovering at around 74 degrees. The SW swells have been as good as they’ve been probably since the El Nino fall of 1997, when I surfed my ass off during my final year of college. I bought a 1.5mm neoprene top from O’Neill a few weeks ago (the water’s almost warm enough in Santa Cruz now for it). I’ve been swimming and working out as much as possible. I’ve been surfing as much as I can. I’m as fit as I’ve been in years and ready to tackle 2x/daily sessions for a week if need be. I’m so ready for this.
We’ll get Scott’s insane new board from the Almond shop. We’ll check spots like Swamis and Malibu. The SoCal surf shops. The San Diego breweries… oh the breweries.
We leave this weekend, heading down HWY 101. The plan is to beeline it to La Jolla, but we might have to make a pit stop in SLO, check the surf at Palisades in Shell Beach or the Pismo pier, and definitely at some secret (to us) spots along the Gaviota coast.
Hopefully we’ll make it to La Jolla in time for some evening glass and a couple of beers. Hopefully there will be some surf after what’s been a solid run of fall swells here in California.
We’re going to wing it from La Jolla, spending the next four days meandering up the PCH and 101 with a car full of boards and music through Orange, LA, Ventura, Santa Barbara, and SLO counties. We’re taking camping gear just in case. Places like Sand Dollar can be amazing in fall. California is world class and Scott was right: we don’t need to get on a plane to experience it. It’s the state’s best time of year for weather and surf, and we’re bound to get some.
I can’t wait. Trip updates to follow.
PS: Huge thanks and love to our families for allowing such shenanigans to occur.
PPS: A shout-out and hug to Justin who unfortunately has to miss this year’s trip. We’ll hoist pint glasses in your honor and will be on it next fall.
Make sure you get some of the freshest fish in the west coast at (Blue Water Seafood.)
Highly recommend!
Enjoy your trip, and catch some waves for me!